Tip 1: Use featherboards for an additional set of hands
When it’s powerful to stay a board aligned with the fence, pull out a featherboard for sleek, straight cuts. Featherboards have a series of picket “fingers” that hold wood tightly against the saw fence.
The fingers area unit slightly versatile associate degreed cut at an angle, in order that they enable you to push the wood through whereas maintaining firm, even pressure. They additionally dig in and hold wood in situ if it starts to relax. they seem to be a nice “third hand” once you need the proper rip. simply push the featherboard firmly against the piece of wood one to three in. before the saw blade, then clamp it tightly to the saw table.
It ought to be fairly straightforward to push the wood forward however onerous to drag it back. And once you are splitting massive boards, add a second clamp for extra-firm pressure.
Make your own featherboards from a 2-ft. length of knot-free 1×4. Cut one finish at forty five degrees. Then cut a series of 4-in.-long kerfs each 1/8 to 1/4 in. (narrower on stiff hardwoods, wider on softwoods)—thin enough therefore the long fingers flex slightly.
Tip 2: discovered straightforward outfeed support
Trying to tear the previous couple of feet of a protracted board while not a helper or support at the opposite finish is nearly not possible. an upscale roller support will solve the matter. however if you do not have one, discovered a brief outfeed support with clamps, 2 2x4s and plyboard. The 2x4s clamped to the saw table keep the plyboard absolutely in line with the table surface. The boards you are cutting can slide onto the support while not obtaining stuck.
To construct a brief outfeed table, clamp 2 8-ft.-long 2x4s to the saw table, cantilevering them more or less five linear unit. over the outfeed aspect. Then screw or clamp 1/4-in. plyboard to the undersurface of the 2x4s.
Keep in mind that this works solely with contractor-size and bigger table saws with significant steel or iron tables. It might cause lighter bench-top saws to tip or bend.
Tip 3: Add a fence to the miter gauge for drum sander crosscuts
The slender breadth of most miter gauges offers poor support once you are crosscutting, particularly once you are cutting at associate degree angle. For higher support, screw a wood fence to the miter gauge. (Most gauges have holes for this purpose.)
Use a straight 1×3 or 1×4, and create it high enough in order that the blade will not cut it utterly off. Then it is easy to feature a removable stop block for creating multiple cuts or amendment the angle and create miter cuts with a similar fence. However, perpetually check the accuracy of the miter gauge with a sq. or drafting instrument before creating any cuts.
To avoid binding and kickbacks once you are cutting, perpetually push the piece of work and fence utterly past the blade. Then flip the saw off before propulsion the fence back and removing recently cut items.
Tip 4: Clamp on a protracted fence for long boards
Keeping a protracted, significant board or a full sheet of plyboard tight against a brief fence may be a challenge, particularly once you work alone. It’s only too straightforward for the wood to drift from the fence, destruction the cut or inflicting the blade to bind and leave burn marks on the sting. To avoid these issues, clamp a protracted level or a protracted, straight board to the fence. The longer the fence, the easer it’s to stay the wood firmly against it.
Tip 5: Use a 0.5 fence for classy grain
Wood with knots or wavy grain and wood that has been dried erratically can typically warp badly as you rip it. If the halves bend outward, one can push against the fence and cause burn marks, a bribe or associate degree uneven cut.
If this begins to happen, clamp a sleek, straight length of 3/4-in. wood against the fence, ending at the middle of the saw blade. This 0.5 fence provides the at bay piece (the section between the blade and therefore the fence) space to bend while not pushing back against the blade. Keep many push sticks at hand therefore you’ll work round the clamps and complete the cut swimmingly.
If the 2 halves bend toward one another as they are being cut—pinching the splitter at the tip of the blade guard—turn the saw off and wedge a wedge between the 2 items. Then complete the cut.
Tip 6: Save your fingers with push sticks
If you discover your hand inside a foot of the table saw blade, it is time to succeed in for a push stick. This essential table saw accent is notched to hook solidly over the tip of the board. you’ll then push it on through and hold it down firmly at a similar time. It permits you to finish a wonderfully straight cut whereas keeping your hands well removed from the blade.
It’s best to stay a minimum of these 2 designs handy. Use the long, slender push stick for smaller, lighter boards and for narrower cuts. And use the broad, flat push stick for wider, heavier boards once you got to apply a lot of downward pressure.
As a rule, use 1/2-in. plyboard for general push sticks. It’s lightweight and difficult and will not split as simply as most solid wood. however do not hesitate to create many totally different thicknesses and designs to use in special things. customise your push sticks with totally different handles, shallower notches (for 1/4-in. plywood, for instance), or strips of rubber or sandpaper for higher grab.
Tip 7: Cut slender strips with a slippery jig
To make a series of identical slender strips for shelf border, you do not got to take away the blade guard or move the fence for each cut. simply attach a brief strip of wood slightly dilutant than the breadth of the rip move the tip of a 4-ft. 1×6. Then hold the board against it and push the jig through. The jig keeps your hands well removed from the blade, and you’ll rip as several items as you would like while not ever moving the fence.
To make the jig, attach a 5-in.-long strip of wood, 1/16 in. narrower than the breadth of the specified rip, to the tip of a 1×6 as shown. primarily you are making a horizontal push stick. Add a handle close to the tip of the jig to offer yourself higher management as you run the jig through the saw.
Tip 8: Trim crooked boards with a plyboard hand tool
The prettiest items of wood at the workplace are not perpetually straight and sleek. however improvement up those rough edges is not tough. To straighten out a crooked board (with minimum waste), merely screw it solidly to a straight strip of plyboard. Then run the board through the saw with the plyboard against the fence. Your board can currently have a straight, sleek aspect to carry against the fence once you are splitting it to breadth.
Plywood straightedges are handy for splitting tapers. merely mark the specified taper on your board, align it with the sting of the plyboard, screw it in situ, and cut.
Make the slippery plyboard hand tool from a 1-ft. x 8-ft. strip of 3/4-in. plywood. Attach the rough board to the plyboard with screws driven (predrilled) through a waste section. If there is not enough waste space, screw up through the plyboard into the rough board and fill the little holes later. Or think about employing special surface-mounted restriction clamps, accessible from craft stores.